Monday 13 June 2016

Pattern blocks: Bodice

Today i have been making my own pattern blocks so i have the made to measure foundations of as many different clothing patterns as i can imagine! I have been using a great book called 'How to use, adapt and design sewing patterns' by Lee Hollahan.

The book contains basic pattern blocks for a bodice, sleeves and skirt. Firstly take some measurements of your body so you know what size pattern blocks to cut out. Then, you simply scale them up onto some pattern drafting paper in the correct size for you. Today i have worked on the bodice. I found that the length of the shoulder was going to be too long for me so i adjusting the pattern at this point. Once i was happy with my paper pattern i added 1.5cm seam allowance and drew the design onto some medium weight calico:



Next i sewed up all the darts and then finally attached the pieces together at the shoulders and side seams:



Now it was time to try it on and check how close the fit was.... turns out the neck hole was too small...


I cut into the fabric to make the neck slighter wider. The fabric i removed from the toile was then used to update the paper pattern.



Time to try it on again...



 Ta da! Now we have a very well fitting bodice :) The paper pattern can now be used as the basis for many different types of tops and dresses that will fit me perfectly every time. The next task is to draft some sleeves....


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